Last updated: May 2025
Northern Thai cuisine (Ahaan Lanna) remains one of Thailand’s best-kept culinary secrets. Pad Thai and green curry have conquered the world. However, the unique flavors of the north are still relatively unknown outside Thailand. I’ve created this guide to the distinctive dishes, ingredients, and dining experiences that make Northern Thai cuisine special.
What Makes Northern Thai Food Unique?
Northern Thai cuisine reflects the region’s cooler climate, mountainous geography, and historical influences from neighboring Burma (Myanmar) and Laos. Key characteristics include:
- Less coconut milk than central and southern Thai cuisines
- Milder chili heat but more complex herb and spice profiles
- Sticky rice (khao niew) as the staple rather than jasmine rice
- Pork and fermented soybean products feature prominently
Bitter flavors are embraced rather than avoided
Must-Try Northern Thai Dishes
Khao Soi (ข้าวซอย)
This signature dish of Chiang Mai features egg noodles in a curry broth. The broth is enriched with coconut milk. It is topped with crispy fried noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, and lime. Usually served with chicken, though some places offer beef or pork versions.
Where to Try It:
- Khao Soi Khun Yai: A tiny open-air spot near Wat Chai Monkol serving nothing but khao soi. Their broth achieves the perfect balance of richness and spice.
- Khao Soi Lam Duan Fah Ham: Operating since 1941, this local institution offers a more intense, less coconut-forward version.
Pro Tip: The condiments served alongside are meant to be added according to your taste. Pickled vegetables add sourness. Crispy fried noodles add crunch. Chili oil increases the heat.
Nam Ngiao (น้ำเงี้ยว)
It is a tangy tomato-based soup with rice noodles and ground pork. Dried cotton flowers (dok ngiew) give it a distinctive red color and slightly sour flavor. Often topped with crispy pork rinds and blood cubes (optional).
Where to Try It:
- Lert Ros: A simple restaurant near Kad Luang (Warorot Market) specializing in this dish.
Nam Ngiao Tha Phae: This restaurant is located near the East gate of the old city. They serve an excellent version with homemade pork balls.
Sai Oua (ไส้อั่ว)
This is a herby sausage found across Laos, Myanmar, and Northern Thailand. It is usually pork-based and packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, and chilies. The complex herb mixture creates a flavor unlike any Western sausage – aromatic, slightly spicy, and distinctly Thai.
Where to Try It:
- Warorot Market: Various vendors sell freshly made sai oua. Look for the ones with local customers.
Huen Muan Jai: A beautiful Lanna-style restaurant serving excellent sai oua alongside other northern specialties.
Nam Prik Ong & Nam Prik Noom (น้ำพริกอ่อง & น้ำพริกหนุ่ม)
These chili dips are central to northern meals. Nam prik ong is a tomato-pork sauce. It is similar to a spicy Bolognese. Nam prik noom features roasted green chilies with a smoky flavor. Both are served with steamed vegetables and crispy pork rinds for dipping.
Where to Try It:
- Tong Tem Toh: Their generous nam prik platter lets you try both varieties alongside seasonal vegetables.
Huen Phen: Authentic preparation in a traditional wooden house setting.
Gaeng Hang Lay (แกงฮังเล)
A rich pork curry without coconut milk, influenced by Burmese cuisine. The complex flavor comes from a blend of ginger, tamarind, turmeric, and pickled garlic. This creates a tangy-sweet profile unlike other Thai curries.
Where to Try It:
- Krua Phech Doi Ngam: A local favorite serving an award-winning version of hang lay.
- SP Chicken: Better known for their roast chicken, their hang lay is surprisingly excellent.
Khanom Jeen Nam Ngiaw (ขนมจีนน้ำเงี้ยว)
Fermented rice noodles topped with a spicy tomato-based broth, ground pork, blood cubes, and herbs. The fermented noodles provide a distinctive tang that balances the rich broth.
Where to Try It:
- Khanom Jeen Baan Phrasing: A simple shop specializing in various khanom jeen toppings.
Mae Suni: A legendary street food vendor who has been making this dish for decades.
Navigating Chiang Mai’s Food Scene
Markets
Markets offer the most authentic and affordable introduction to northern Thai cuisine:
Warorot Market (Kad Luang)
This century-old market is the culinary heart of Chiang Mai. The ground floor focuses on fresh produce, while the upper level houses numerous food stalls.
Don’t Miss:
- Kanom tuay (coconut pudding) from the vendor near the southern entrance
- Sai oua sampling from multiple vendors to find your favorite
- Nam prik noom sold in banana leaf packages
Ton Payom Market
Located near Chiang Mai University, this market caters more to locals than tourists. The food court section serves excellent breakfast and lunch options.
Don’t Miss:
- Khao kan jin (steamed rice with blood, fried garlic, and herbs)
- Khao soi served only in the mornings
- Kanom krok (coconut rice pancakes)
Street Food Area’s
Chang Phuak Gate (North Gate)
The evening food stalls here are legendary. One standout is “Cowboy Lady,” known for her cowboy hat. She serves exceptional khao kha moo (stewed pork leg with rice).
Best Time to Visit: 5 PM to midnight
Nimman Road Soi 1
This small alley transforms into a street food haven each evening. It caters to the trendy Nimman neighborhood with slightly more upscale offerings.
Best Time to Visit: 6 PM to 10 PM
Restaurants Worth the Splurge
While street food offers incredible value, these restaurants provide more comfortable settings to explore northern cuisine:
Huen Muan Jai
Set in a traditional wooden house with garden seating, they serve beautiful renditions of northern classics in a relaxed atmosphere.
Price Range: ฿150-250 per dish Must-Order: Their nam prik platter and gaeng hang lay
Tong Tem Toh
Perhaps the most Instagram-famous northern Thai restaurant, but the food lives up to the hype. The rustic wooden interior creates the perfect atmosphere for exploring Lanna cuisine.
Price Range: ฿120-200 per dish Must-Order: Tam kanoon (young jackfruit salad) and sai oua
Cooking Schools: Learn to Make It Yourself
Taking home northern Thai cooking skills is the ultimate souvenir. These schools offer specialized northern Thai cooking classes:
Zabb E Lee Cooking School
One of the most popular cooking schools for a reason. Classes are split into groups of 2-10. The half day course starts with a tour of the market. Then, you prepare your choice of 4-5 dishes from the menu. Be prepared for a good time, it’s a great mix of learning, cooking and dancing.
Cost: ฿1,200 for a half-day class including market tour
Mama Noi Cooking School
Beyond the standard tourist favorites, they offer a northern Thai specialty class. In this class, you’ll learn to make khao soi and nam prik. You will also learn to make more Thai dishes.
Cost: ฿1,000-1,200 for a half-day class including market tour
Asia Scenic Cooking School
Their organic farm course includes northern dishes like hang lay curry and teaches about regional ingredients and farming practices.
Cost: ฿1,300 for a full-day farm course
Coffee Culture in Chiang Mai
Northern Thailand’s mountains provide the perfect climate for growing arabica coffee, making Chiang Mai a haven for coffee enthusiasts:
Akha Ama Coffee
Founded by an Akha hill tribe member, this social enterprise sources beans directly from tribal communities. Their La Fattoria location offers coffee processing tours.
Specialty: Their honey-processed beans produce a naturally sweet cup.
Ristr8to
Award-winning latte art and scientific approach to brewing make this the most famous coffee shop in Chiang Mai. Expect to wait for a seat at peak times.
Specialty: “Satan Latte” featuring their signature Lucifer blend and complex latte art.
Graph Cafe
For serious coffee enthusiasts, their rotating selection of single-origin beans showcases Thailand’s growing specialty coffee movement.
Specialty: Pour-over coffee using beans from northern hill tribes.
Final Thoughts
Northern Thai cuisine offers a refreshing change from the better-known central Thai dishes that dominate international Thai restaurants. The emphasis on herbs rather than heat is notable. It embraces bitter and fermented flavors, drawing influence from neighboring countries. These elements create a culinary tradition that rewards exploration.
The best approach is to start with accessible dishes. Begin with meals like khao soi. Then venture into more challenging flavors like nam prik noom. Dining with locals or joining a cooking class can provide valuable context for appreciating the nuances of Lanna food culture.
What’s your favorite Northern Thai dish? Have you discovered any hidden food gems in Chiang Mai? Share your experiences in the comments below!
Wander with Orla 